Sam Sifton Had a Date With Blanca, a Bluefin Tuna Head, and Our Friend Paul

Former New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton sheds some light on Blanca, the new project from the Roberta's team that, compared to Roberta's, approaches eating from the other end of the food spectrum.

Sifton draws comparisons to Momofuku Ko and Brooklyn Fare, restaurants that share a similar vision.  At all three restaurants, Blanca included, the chefs only offer a tasting menu.  The dishes get served to guests seated around the kitchen, where they're able to watch chefs prepare a series of plates that get placed in front of them.  At Blanca, this happens around 20 times, at a pace Sifton defines as "measured and relentless."

Blanca is serving their $180 tasting menu four nights a week, Wednesday through Satruday, with one seating each night at 6pm.  It's an exclusive affair, one Mr. Mirarchi hopes to eventually expand to include a fifth night and two seatings.  Part of the price tag allows you to choose the soundtrack to your meal.  Records brought in from some of the owner's collections are on hand with a turntable, allowing guests to play what they want to hear.  The food, though, is all Mirarchi.

Our good friend Paul Tortora was there Saturday with his brother Jonathan.  Paul's the guy with the ponytail pictured under the tuna head, he's a (brilliant) wine rep for Rare Wine Co.  We asked him about dinner: "The meal, in a word, was dialed-in."

Pete Wells Needs a Little Lumbar Lovin'

In a recent post on dinersjournal, Times restaurant critic Pete Wells notes no-reservations policies, communal tables, loud music, and uncomfortable chairs are the trends that have defined restaurant openings in the past 10 years. He asks, "Do restaurants do these things on purpose to keep older customers away?"

Wells explains that from a business perspective age doesn't matter when it comes to the value of money. But, "restaurants that make you wait for the chance to sit on an uncomfortable seat at a shared table where you will have to scream above the music — or eat in silence — are not doing all they could to make customers of a certain age feel welcome."

Throw Your Hands Up and Gout

Frank Bruni was the New York Times restaurant critic for five years.  He was diagnosed with Gout last November.  It is said to be the "disease of kings," as it results from diets with surplus amounts of red meat and alcohol.

Bruni says his diet was something he always meant to get around to adjusting, he just "lacked the proper motivation" to do so.  His blog brings us this insightful article and explains how "illness and the threat of extreme pain" have lead to a healthier lifestyle.

Eric Asimov Shines a Light on Sicilian Wines

Italian wines are drastically different from region to region.  The wines of Sicily are unique in that they represent a hot climate, though manage to retain a minerality that comes from a volcanic soil that has been composed over years of influence from Mount Etna.

NYTimes wine guy Eric Asimov helps further explain the beauty and uniqueness of Sicilian reds.