Pete Wells has Two More for Perla

Pete Wells gives two stars to Gabe Stulman's two-month old Perla in today's review.  Chef Toscano's savory part of the menu is right up Pete's alley.  He finds the veal in one of the anitpasti "thrillingly pink," while a tartare made from a Piedmontese breed of cow is "suave."

When it comes to desserts, it may be in chef Mr. Toscano's interest to hire a pastry chef, "Rustic desserts like chocolate crostata or date cheesecake looked as if they had been dropped on the floor, and fennel cookies showed up one night so underdone that they might have been made in an Easy-Bake oven."

Wells is none too pleased about some of the policies instilled at the restaurant, as he finds "Dining at Perla takes a significant commitment of time and money. The restaurant should make a reciprocal commitment, rather than force customers to stand around near the bar — not at the bar (stools are reserved for dining at peak hours), but near the bar."  "Better values would be welcome and so would reservations."

Perla Turns One Week this Week

Perla is the much buzzed about new restaurant from Gabe Stulman.  At 24 Minetta Lane, it's the fourth restaurant in his Wisco empire, along with Joseph Leonard, Jeffery's Grocery, and Fedora. 

Michael Toscano made the move from Manzo to helm the kitchen at Perla, and with only a few nights of service under its belt, the city has plenty of (mostly good) things to say.

Minetta Lane is in Michael Toscano's Ear and in Gabe Stulman's Eye

When Eataly opened at the end of August in 2010, Michael Toscano made the move from Babbo to head the stoves at Manzo, Eataly's flagship resto.  After a year and a half he will pack up and take his knives to Perla, the new venture from West Village powerhouse Gabe Stulman.

Perla will open in the old Bellavitae space at 24 Minetta Lane.  Chef Toscano's Italian cooking will fit into a traditional antipasti, primi, secondi Italian menu format.  The space boasts a wood burning, brick oven that will lend itself nicely to various roasts for two.

Along with Mr. Toscano comes a pretty all-star staff.