Stulman's Sixth Gets Two

[Sasha Maslov for the Times]When Montmartre first opened, people anticipated casual French fare (as advertised), bistro food kissed by chef Tien Ho's delicate Southeast Asian touch. Ho, who's worked for Daniel Boulud and David Chang, has been touted as one of the city's finer chefs. Expectations for Montmartre were high, but Gabe Stulman's latest Little Wisco endeavor seemingly left little to be desired out of the gate. A month and a half after opening, the team revamped the menu and today Pete Wells refers to Montmartre as "the most improved restaurant of the year."

"Prizes seemed unlikely after I ate there in April," Wells writes early in the review. Menu items like veal blanquette, skate wing, and raw kale salad seemed good on paper, but the critic found the execution, and some of the food, a bit bland.

The new, improved menu came sometime at the beginning of April. "The effect was transformative," Wells writes, "as if National Grid had finally turned on the gas." A synergy was found between Stulman's vision and Ho's creativity in the kitchen. According to Wells, "Once in a while, Montmartre still gets a case of the blahs," but he awards the restaurant two stars.

For Montmartre, like Perla, Stulman brought in a chef from outside his Little Wisco empire. At his other restaurants (Joseph Leonard, Fedora, Jeffery's Grocery, and Chez Sardine), growth happened organically so to speak. At those restaurants, front and back of house staff shuffled around to grow the brand. At Perla, Stulman took a chance on chef Michael Toscano's forward-thinking Italian comfort food. It was an instant hit. Chef Tien Ho's tightly-bound talent and extensive knowledge of worldly cuisines took some time to hit its stride. Now that it has, Stulman has another hit on his hands. [NYTimes]

Chez Sardine Gets Ichi Star

[courtesy chezsardine.com]Gabe Stulman opened Perla at the beginning of 2012. Former Babbo chef Michael Toscano commands the kitchen there, and in May last year, Pete Wells filed a two-star review on the restaurant. Chez Sardine, Stulman's fifth, opened in November, and today Wells gives the restaurant one star.

Chez Sardine is the restaurant group's first Asian restaurant, loosely inspired by Japanese izakayas (restaurants we love to eat in). Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly is the chef, and he's got four years at Au Pied De Cochon on his resume. Between there and Sardine, he created a menu with American and bistro leans at Fedora, another restaurant under Stulman's umbrella.

Pete Wells' review has more than one reference to "Asian Stoner Food," but the menu is not without well-executed food. "Hamachi with chicharrones reads like a declaration of war," Wells begins, "but no. The pork skins add crunch and a savoriness that deepens as you chew and that is kept in check by pickled ginger. And Arctic char, cured with sugar and lime zest and smoked, makes for sushi you could happily eat for breakfast." "And there are lovely little grace notes," he continues, "like the brussels sprouts in brown butter with apple purée, good enough to make you wish Mr. Brunet-Benkritly would take an interest in vegetables more often."

Despite snack, sushi bar, small and large plate options on the menu, "There are, in fact," Wells writes, "very few ways to put together a balanced meal at Chez Sardine." But Stulman's Little Wisco empire has grown even since Chez Sardine. Montmartre opened in Chelsea just three months later; proving, if there were any doubts before, Stulman's got his formula down to a science. Maybe Wells will check in on Montmartre and find more to like on Tien Ho's menu. [NYTimes]

Show Me a Sign: Montmartre

Gabe Stulman and Tien Ho announced they were opening a project together back in September. It was learned later that the project would be called Montmartre, and at the end of last week, an awning went up outside the restaurant's 158 Eighth Avenue address.

Monmartre will be Stulman's first venture outside the boundries of the West Village, where his Little Wisco empire has quickly grown to include five restaurants. The Chelsea restaurant's name is inspired by where Stulman worked in college; Cafe Montmartre. It was here that he got his first taste of the "neighborhood vibe," and that same feeling is what's come to define his vision.

Tien Ho is creating a French-American menu for Montmartre and the restaurant will be his first full-time gig since leaving Ma Peche at the end of 2011. Ho worked at Cafe Boulud before joing the Momofuku empire at Ssam Bar. From there, he went on to open Ma Peche in the Chambers Hotel as the executive chef. He has an affinity for unique wine and obscure wine-growing regions and we will likely see that passion on the wine list when the restaurant opens in the following weeks.

Thank You 2012

Last year was an exciting year for food. Mission Chinese and Pok Pok both opened East Coast outposts, two new chef's counters opened via Atera and Blanca, Pete Wells a) became the New York Times food critic and b) wrote a historically scathing review of Guy Fieri's Times Square restaurant, Dinosaur BBQ announced 604 Union Street in Brooklyn as its next home, Andrew Carmellini opened The Library with work on his French resto Lafayette getting well underway, Gabe Stulman's Little Wisco Empire grew by two via Perla and Chez Sardine (Montmarte, Stulman's next project, will open this year in Chelsea), April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman opened Salvation Taco, The Nomad happened, so did a culinary swap between Eleven Madison Park and Alinea, Italian cuisine invaded SoHo via Principessa, Angelo SoHo, Galli, and Isola Trattoria e Crudo Bar, Great Googa Mooga attracted over 30,000 people to Prospect Park in May, and the entire industry came together after devestation swept through the city in the winds of Hurricane Sandy.

Also in 2012, Brooklyn's Gowanus neighborhood got its first wine store via Gowanus Wine Merchants, and Third Avenue in the same Brooklyn neighborhood saw the opening of The Pines (our 2012 favorite) and Runner & Stone on the same stretch between Carroll and President Streets (Littleneck is on the same block), creating a culinary nucleus of sorts. Fletcher's Brooklyn Barbecue gave Third Ave a boost a few blocks south when it opened between 7th and 8th Streets last fall. Generally speaking, 2012 was a big year for the borough of Brooklyn. Josh Ozersky wrote 2,000 words to the contrary last year, but the quality of food and number of dining options in Kings County seemed to increase tenfold. Last year alone the borough welcomed Reynard, Gwynnett Street, Aska came and Frej went, Ganso, Talde, Pork Slope, Dassara, Hunter's, Red Gravy, Governor, Gran Electrica, La Vara, Lulu & Po, The Wallace, Dear Bushwick, and Bristket Town. Speedy Romeo, Krescendo, and Brooklyn Central gave pizza fenatics a handful of new options and there was the whole Grimaldi's/Juliana debacle to boot.

The 2013 train is already set in motion and looking to bring another exciting year. Ivan Orkin will open his first stateside ramen shop, the boys behind Torrisi will open two spots on Thompson Street via The Lobster Club and Carbone, Michael White will open The Butterfly, Ristorante Morini uptown and possibly something in the former Fiamma space (the building was sold by BR Guest's Steven Hanson at the end of last year and White's Altamarea Group is leasing the space from the new owners), and Andy Ricker will be opening a Brooklyn outpost of his Portland-based Whiskey Soda Lounge half a block north from Pok Pok Ny on Columbia Street in the spring. Even for the superstitious, there's luck to be had in 2013 and it may come in the form of a Battersby expansion.

For both Manhattan and Brooklyn (and the other, lesser explored boroughs by Digest NY), the lists go on and on and will get even longer as the days of 2013 start to come and go. As they do, we'll be here to keep you abreast and athigh of the latest and greatest of all things food in the greatest city there is.

Happy 2013 New York!

Chez Sardine is Open

Chez Sardine opened last night at 183 West 10th Street. The restaurant is Little Wisco emperor Gabe Stulman's first forray into Japanese cuisine and the izakaya-style restaurant is the next to go from our Taste of Tastes to Come list.

Izakaya is a Japanese drinking establishment where the food is designed to go with the drink. To help make that happen, Stulman called on talent from other Little Wisco restaurants. Fedora chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly is in charge of the food at the new 30-seater. The menu hasn't been released yet, but some of the dishes Brunet-Benkritly is serving are smoked arctic char, beef with sea urchin, sushi rice balls with avocado and fish roe, and chicken with kimchi. Perla sommelier Jen Sgobbo put together the list of sake and wine for Sardine. We'll get back to you with more very soon.

183 West 10th Street | 646-360-3705 | www

Anticipating Montmartre

[krieger] tien hoTien Ho was a sous chef at Cafe Boulud before leaving to work for David Chang at Momofuku Ssam Bar. From there he moved uptown to work as the executive chef at Ma Peche when Chang opened the restaurant in the basement of the Chambers Hotel. Ho left Ma Peche in the fall of 2011 and spent the ensuing year out of New York City restaurants, a time he describes in a recent interview with Eater as "really depressing."

Times have changed. Ho is back, and for his next trick he has teamed up with Gabe Stulman in a partnership that will add Montemartre, a casual French restaurant, to the Little Wisco empire. The project is scheduled to open in the first quarter of 2013 and will happen shortly after Chez Sardine, Stulman's Izakaya-inspired restaurant, opens at 183 West 10th Street. Along with the exciting food we can expect at Montmartre, we're predicting a stellar wine list.

Ho describes his appreciation for "Funky wines" in an interview with The Insider, "especially from Jura and Naples. Bandols, too!," he goes on, "And I have a very soft spot for wines from Aubin." His mention of Bandols refers to a wine growing region on the Mediterranean coast in southeastern France. Mourvedre is the predominant grape there and it produces dark, complex, and age-worthy wines. Eric Asimov recently wrote how the same grape thrives in Spain, where it is referred to as monastrell. In each place, the grape produces dark, complex, and age-worthy wines.

Wines from Jura have garnered a following that may best be described as cultish and Ho's affinity for them is shared amongst members of the wine community. Jura's arsenal includes exceptionally clean, vibrant sparkling wine a la Cremant du Jura, racy whites a la savagnin, and light, elegant, mineral-driven reds from the trousseau grape. The region's unique growing conditions and limited production have resulted in wines of extraordinary character that wine lovers will go out of their way to seek out.

Ho's interest in unique wines, coupled with his proven talent in the kitchen, have us anticipating a seriously très bon dining experience when Montmartre opens early next year.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5... 6?!

Chez Sardine will open in the West Village sometime this winter. When it does, it will become the 5th installment in Gabe Stulman's Little Wisco empire. The restaurant will also be Stulman's first foray into Japanese food; drawing inspiration from a Japanese Izakaya, which is a type of casual Japanese drinking establishment that serves food to go with the booze. Chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, who is currently at Fedora, will take the toque at Chez Sardine.

Work hasn't started on the 183 West 10th Street storefront yet, but today we get word that Stulman has partnered with former Momofuku Ssam and Ma Peche chef Tien Ho and plans on opening a bristo.  A location has been chosen but isn't being revealed just yet.  Is it safe to say it'll be somewhere in the West Village?  Before work starts on the 6th Little Wisco project, Tien Ho will be working with Stulman at his other West Village haunts.

Pete Wells has Two More for Perla

Pete Wells gives two stars to Gabe Stulman's two-month old Perla in today's review.  Chef Toscano's savory part of the menu is right up Pete's alley.  He finds the veal in one of the anitpasti "thrillingly pink," while a tartare made from a Piedmontese breed of cow is "suave."

When it comes to desserts, it may be in chef Mr. Toscano's interest to hire a pastry chef, "Rustic desserts like chocolate crostata or date cheesecake looked as if they had been dropped on the floor, and fennel cookies showed up one night so underdone that they might have been made in an Easy-Bake oven."

Wells is none too pleased about some of the policies instilled at the restaurant, as he finds "Dining at Perla takes a significant commitment of time and money. The restaurant should make a reciprocal commitment, rather than force customers to stand around near the bar — not at the bar (stools are reserved for dining at peak hours), but near the bar."  "Better values would be welcome and so would reservations."