Before opening Angolo SoHo at 53 Grand Street, chef Michael Berardino familiarized himself with Italy and all things meat during his time at dell'anima and neighboring sister restaurants The Cannibal and Resto. Berardino was replaced by Preston Clark, a Jean Georges vet who has since revamped the menu at Resto.
The menu at Angolo SoHo is true to Italian format: antipasti, primi, secondi, and a handful of contorni. Standby's like fritti misti and spaghetti alla vongole will appease the curious, out of town passersby. Dishes like housemade stracciatella with bottarga and basil seeds and the Sardinian lamb loin with fregola sarda and mint showcase Berardino's knack for Italian ingredients. The piece de resistance may be an 8 week dry aged ribeye for two with bone marrow, radish, arugula, capers, and lemon for $130.
Angolo SoHo is the third Italian restaurant in a five block radius to open in SoHo in the last two months. Galli and Isola Trattoria & Crudo Bar both opened at the beginning of August and added two new Italian options to the neighborhood south of Houston Street. Galli, at 45 Mercer Street, serves Italian comfort food in a rustic, exposed brick room designed by owner Steve Gallo's wife Karen. Many of the dishes come from Steve Gallo's family recipes. Isola Trattoria opened in a 5,000 square foot greenhouse at 9 Crosby Street and serves a fish-heavy menu inspired by southern Italy and the Amalfi Coast. The triumvirate of Italian restaurants would be overkill in any other town but this one.
Galli | 45 Mercer Street
Angolo SoHo | 53 Grand Street
Isola Trattoria & Crudo Bar | 9 Crosby Street