Wine Director Roberto Paris Will Return to Il Buco After a 3-Year Hiatus
Roberto Paris wasn't in New York in February to see Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria get three glowing stars from Pete Wells, but he'll be here from now on. Paris worked at Alimentari's older sister restaurant Il Buco as the wine director from 1997 until 2009. His extensive knowledge of wine helped elevate Il Buco's reputation in a city that's stuffed like cannelloni with Italian restaurants. His time at Il Buco established a sense of community at the restaurant and introduced New York City to the great, complex, earthy, Rhone-esque Sagrantino grape that grows in Montefalco, Umbria, Paris' native region of Italy. Paris equates leaving the restaurant after 11 years to a break up. Daniel Meyer wrote an article for Serious Eats and quotes Paris on the subject, "It's like when you're in a long relationship. When you break up you are disombobulated, but it's also a time to discover different aspects of yourself."
Meyer informs us of Roberto Paris' return to the city of New York next month after a three year hiatus. His plan? Go back to work with Alberto Avalle and Donna Lennard at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria, where he will bring back what Lennard explains is that visceral elemant and a certain je ne sais quoi.