Nebbiolo, You Smoky Devil

It's been a while since we've done anything wine-related, but a recent meal in our friend's backyard inspired us to change that. We had decided to welcome the (slightly) warmer spring weather with grilled fish and some light, smoky nebbiolos. The nebbiolo came in two forms: a 2005 Carema and a 2007 L.A. Cetto Private Reserve.

Carema is nestled in the mountains of northwestern Piemonte and is one of the smallest wine growing regions in the world. There, Luigi Ferrando makes what many consider to be the best nebbiolos the region has to offer. Ferrando has two labels: Etichetta Bianca and Etichetta Nera. The Nera is only produced in exceptional vintages. It's a bit more complex and slightly meatier than the Bianca, but both are organic, made exclusively from nebbiolo grapes, and far and away some of our favorite wines - nebbiolo or otherwise.

The high altitude in which the grapes grow results in a light, aromatic wine with racy acidity and bright minerality. White wine is a safe bet with seafood, but when it's only 45 degrees out, Ferrando's Etichetta Bianca is an exquisite pair with charred, grilled fish.

While nebbiolo thrives in Piemonte, where the Tanaro River and Mount Blanc moderate the climate and ensure a steady growing season, producers in other parts of the world have had their share of success with the fickle grape.

In the state of Baja California, Mexico, in Valle de Guadalupe, L.A. Cetto makes a nebbiolo in the style of Piemonte's prized Barolo. Cetto's wine is aged for two years in barrique (small French barrels) and another two years in the bottle. Because Valle de Guadalupe is a much hotter, drier climate than Piemonte, the result is a much richer, more extracted wine. It shares nebbiolo's classic tannin structure, but has prominent aromas of black fruits and leather. The nearby Pacific lends itself to coastal influences and make for a unique, surprisingly well-balanced wine.