3 Stars for Kyo Ya
In his gratuitous 3-star-review of Kyo Ya, Pete Wells boasts of the restaurant's exclusion from technology. You won't find Kyo Ya on OpenTable, the restaurant doesn't have a website, and if "Kyo Ya has opinions about bankers or fracking, they remain untweeted." In other words, until the Times mentioned Kyo Ya, it wasn't exactly 'Ko difficult' to experience the kaiseki menu that's only offered to 10 people a night.
The title of the review is "Seasonality's Master Practioner," referring to chef Chikara Sono's seasonal sensibilities and the respect for the seasons that Japanese cuisine is centered upon. "It is easy in New York now to believe that eating ramps in April makes you an expert in seasonal cooking. As a meal at Kyo Ya will show, this is a little like believing that eating a tuna salad sandwich makes you a marine biologist."