Licked Plates and One Star for MP Taverna

[brian harkin for the ny times]Michael Psilakis has been in New York cooking the food inspired by his Greek roots for years. For a while he did it in Manhattan at Onera and Anthos. Both restaurants closed. Psilakis created an excellent, casual, neighborhood Greek den in Kefi, but that restaurant was forced to close back in February after a pipe busted. In today's Times review, Pete Wells heads to MP Taverna in Astoria, Psilakis' newest venture, and finds that the restaurant "offers a second-generation, melting-pot vision of an America where Greek flavors have been woven into the fabric of American cooking so thoroughly that they’re taken for granted."

Wells makes mention of the beverage options. He writes, "Unlike a diner, though, MP Taverna turns over the back of its menu to a list of about six dozen wines by the half glass, full glass, half bottle and full bottle, and about as many beers, nearly all from craft breweries." Despite the abundance of unique, indigenous grape varietals in Greece, stong beverage programs rarely make their way into Greek restaurants – particularly those in Astoria. The well-curated selection at MP Taverna is a big part of what makes the restaurant relevant. It's also another reason to make the trek to Queens.

As for the food, "The only delicate thing about the restaurant’s abundant, lusty plates," Wells writes, "is the prices: $8.50 for the cod, $11 for the octopus and $15 for the dumplings, a main course that I couldn’t finish, though I wanted to." The critic enjoys most of the fare, but finds some flaws in its execution. "Those who remember his earlier odes to Greece — sung elegantly at Anthos, soulfully at Onera — may wish more of his old finesse had survived the trip from Manhattan to Queens." Wells awards one star. [NYTimes]

Max Falkowitz recently reviewed MP Taverna at Serious Eats. He summed the restaurant up thusly, "it's not your average Astoria Greek joint. The food's more nuanced and careful, the booze is way better, and the prices are accordingly higher. But it still feels as genuine and casual as its mom and pop neighbors, respecting its elders while shaking up expectations." Falkowitz licked his plate clean. [SENY]