Is Jewish Cuisine the New New Nordic?
For a while it was impossible to go out to eat without hearing something about New Nordic cuisine. It was happening all at once in the East Village at Acme, in Tribeca at Atera, and across the river in Williamsburg at Kinfolk Studios pop-up Frej. In Copenhagen, Rene Redzepi's end-all-be-all Nordic restaurant Noma continues to be a mecca for chefs looking to stage.
While all of this was happening, Jewish food was on the sidelines waiting for its chance to play. A few days ago, the folks from Tribeca's Jewish bistro Kutsher's released this video, making Jewish food the sexiest we've ever seen it. The success of Jewish deli Mile End reached Manhattan earlier this year with a location opened on Bond Street. Jack's Wife Freda opened at the beginning of the year and serves Jewish food on Lafayette Street in Soho.
Jezebel is the newest member of the Jewish restaurant trend. It opened earlier this month on West Broadway and aims to stand out with its adherence to the laws of kashut that make it a completely kosher restaurant. A commitment to serving kosher food is one thing, but for former Gramercy Tavern employee Nick Mautone, that isn't enough. Mautone heads the beverage program at Jezebel and plans a 20 drink menu that will only feature kosher cocktails. To achieve this, he plans housemade vermouths and a reliance on other kosher-certified bar companions like Benedictine, Disaronno, and Angostura bitters.
An integral part of the city's dining landscape are the Jewish counters and delicatessens that have fed New Yorkers for decades. The resurgence of Jewish restaurants in a city freckled with long-standing mainstays begs the question; Is Jewish food the new New Nordic?
Reader Comments