Brunch at the Pines

The Pines launched brunch service over the weekend and the menu Angelo Romano put together for the occasion is a far cry from another generic tablet of poached eggs and yogurt. It's laced with the same creative backbone and diversion from common ingredients that has defined Romano's cooking since the restaurant opened in September. There are poached eggs on the menu, but they wear a fresh guise; mushroom hash with fingerling potatoes and a smear of creamy robiola cheese. If you wake up with a strange desire for smoked bluefish salad and waffles, or just feel like having one of the better brunches the city has to offer, head to 284 Third Avenue in Gowanus. The Pines awaits.

Mushroom Hash ($14) - Fingerling potatos, robiola, poached egg.

"Meaty" Hen of the Woods, Abalone, and Miatake mushrooms make for a great vegetarian hash. The bounty of yolk from two perfectly poached eggs mixes with the fresh cow's milk robiola for a rich, stick to your ribs kind of brunch. Hangover helper. Many of the brunch items have components that carry over to the dinner menu. Abalone and Miatake mushrooms are the culprits here; each plays a part in the Wagyu Steak and Pompano (respectively) that are currently on the dinner menu. It's a common theme common throughout the brunch menu and it showcases Romano's creativity.

Buckwheat Waffles ($15) - Smoked bluefish, creme fraiche, caper berry. Toast points typically accompany this sort of salad on dinner menus. For brunch at the Pines, the smoked bluefish salad is served with a buckwheat waffle that serves a similar purpose. Preserved caper berries and cavair add a brininess that matches that of the bluefish. The vinegary punch from the berries helps cut through the creme fraiche and the fish's naturally fatty flesh.

Maltagliate Carbonara ($16) - Chef Romano isn't the first to serve bacon and eggs in pasta form for brunch, but his rendition is one of the better. Guanciale, black pepper, and egg all delivered on perfectly cooked, homemade pasta.

Our First Bite of the Pines is this way.

The Pines | 284 Third Avenue (btwn Carroll and President) | 718.596.6560 | www

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